*This post is sponsored by Rust-Oleum. All content and opinions are my own.
I still can’t get over how amazing my freshly painted, old linoleum floors look in the laundry room! For this project, I partnered with Rust-Oleum to try out their interior paint product, Rust-Oleum HOME Floor Coating. This product can be purchased at Home Depot.
I used black and white to create the checkered pattern on my floor, but the product comes in a light and dark base that can be tinted to any color you prefer. This DIY was pretty simple and affordable! Today I am sharing a full tutorial on how I painted the checkered pattern on my old linoleum floors.
Linoleum Floors Before
Here is a reminder of what my laundry room floors looked like before the makeover.
The old linoleum was dirty, yellowed, and very dated. When I was designing the new space, I knew I wanted my laundry room to feel fresh, modern, and clean. The black and white checkered tile has been popping up in some of my favorite bloggers’ designs and I was excited to create my own DIY version of this look that was more within my price range.
My original laundry room was ROUGH! Whenever I have a space that is completely un-inspiring, I find myself neglecting it even more and using it as a dumping ground for common clutter. This is exactly what happened in our laundry room.
Now that you have seen what my laundry room looked like for the last 8 months, let’s get started with the tutorial so you can see how I turned it all around!
Tutorial | How to Paint Linoleum Floors
Check out the purchase list at the bottom of the tutorial for a link to all of the items needed for this DIY.
Step 1 | Clean the Floors
Clean the floors you are going to paint with a strong cleaner to remove grime and dirt. I used Mold Armor but other products, like Krud Kutter Original Cleaner/Degreaser, work as well. You want the floors to be as clean as possible to achieve a smooth finish once the paint is applied.
Step 2 | Apply Rust-Oleum Base Coat
Once the floors are clean, you will apply the first Rust-Oleum Base Coat(labeled Step 1). Paint the perimeter of the room first with a paintbrush. If you are not confident painting a straight line, I recommend taping off the baseboards prior to painting.
Step 3 | Determine the Pattern Size
It is important to determine the size of your squares before you begin. For my laundry room, I chose 16×16 squares. You will want to begin the pattern in the corner that is most visible to the eye. For my project, this was the first corner you see when standing in the doorway of the laundry room. Beginning the pattern with a half square (or diamond) is most visually pleasing to the eye, so you want to start the pattern as if it ended perfectly in this way.
Step 4 | Create Your First Square
Once you determine your square size and where you will begin the pattern, mapping out the rest is pretty simple. The first square requires a little math. Here is how I got my first square down for my 16×16 square using a metal framing square.
- Begin in the most visible corner you have chosen
- Mark a 16″ line against the wall from that corner
- At 16″ – Use the framing square to create a 16″ perpendicular, straight line. This will be your center point
- Connect the center point to the corner of the room and measure the length.
- Take that same length and connect the center point to the other side of the wall. This is your half square.
*In full transparency, I made a small error with my first square – instead of using 16″ as the center point, I used 8″. My half square actually looks like a quarter of the square but I don’t think anyone notices, but me!
Step 5 | Complete the Diamond Pattern
You now have two lines to work off with to complete the pattern.
- Align the ruler/framing square to the first line in the corner and carry the line across the room until it meets the wall. I would keep half of the ruler on the line already drawn and extend the other half to ensure I was keeping a straight line.
- From the first intersecting line you created (the center point), measure 16″ along the line and make a marker
- Match the framing bar to the line and draw a perpendicular line at the 16″ marker
- Continue that line across the room and mark perpendicular lines at every 16″
What I would change at this point in the project…
Mapping out the pattern with a pencil went pretty quickly and was surprisingly easy, but there is one big change I would make if I did this project over again. I did not realize how sensitive the painted base coat would be to smudges and dirt. As I sketched out the diamond pattern, I began creating lead smudges and scrapes from the metal framing bar.
I noticed my jeans would leave a mark too as I sat on the floor. To protect the floors, I wore soft fabric clothing and socks to prevent staining of the floor and did my best to avoid scraping and smudging as I went along. If I did this project all over again, I would definitely apply the Matte Coat over the white Base Coat and THEN map out the diamond pattern.
You can see the smudges I created all over the freshly painted floor. I had to fix the white squares with paint as I painted the black squares of the pattern.
Step 6 | Tape the Black Squares
First, you will need to determine which diamonds you want white and black. For my specific project, I wanted the black diamond to be more centered in the main walkway and based my pattern off of that goal.
Next, I used the yellow Frogtape product that is made for delicate surfaces, specifically when taping over newer paint. As I taped around the black squares, I added a yellow dot to the center of each black diamond to reference once I began painting.
Tip: To create crisp corners, use a putty knife to tear off the tape. I saw this recommendation in one of the many tutorials I referenced for this project and was kicking myself that I hadn’t learned it earlier!
Step 7 | Paint the Black Squares
Use the black Rust-Oleum Base Coat for the black squares. Find the area furthest from the door and paint yourself towards the exit. Before painting each square, press down on the yellow tape to avoid as much bleeding as possible. You can use a 1/4″ mini paint roller or a paintbrush to apply the paint. This will need 2 coats of paint as well.
Even though I scrubbed the floors thoroughly and kept my family out of the laundry room; dog hair and bits of dirt still made their way onto the floor. As I moved from square to square, I used the tape to pick up any stray hair before applying the paint.
Let the first coat of paint dry for 6 hours and then repeat. As you work your way through the second coat of black paint, pull up the taped border while the paint is still wet. Keep your white paint nearby to apply any touchups to the white squares too.
Step 8 | Apply Rust-Oleum Matte Sealer
For this final step, you will apply Rust-Oleum Top Coat (step 2) which will give the floor a solid finish. The Top Coat requires only 1 coat and you will want to paint the trim and floor at the same time. Find the furthest corner in the room and paint the trim. While the trim is still wet, use a 1/4″ mini roller to apply the sealant to the floors. This goes on as a slightly milky consistency and then dries clear.
Step 9 | Let Floors Dry & Cure
Let the floors dry for 72 hours before walking on them and moving furniture back into the room (avoid dragging). The Rust-Oleum HOME product takes 7 days to completely cure so I would recommend limiting traffic for a week if possible.
Step 10 | Enjoy Your New Floors
My laundry room seriously feels like a completely new room and painting the floors made the biggest difference. I have lived with the new floors for a few weeks now and they really are rock solid. The painted floors are easy to clean and scratch resistant.
I love that I was able to breathe new life into my old linoleum floors for a fraction of what it would cost to replace them with tile.
Rust-Oleum Project Purchase List
- Rust-Oleum HOME – Ultra White Tint Base / Deep Tint Base in Black / Matte Top Coat
- 1/4″ roller sleeve
- Mini roller frame
- Angled paintbrush (I prefer 2″)
- Framing Square
- Delicate Surface FrogTape
- Mold Armor – or any cleaning agent that removes grime
- 3/8″ Roller sleeve
- Wire roller frame
- Extension pole (not required)
- Putty Knife
- Paint tray and tray liners
I believe that every space in your house should bring you joy, even when the function of that space isn’t always fun. My new laundry room makes me smile and gives me energy whenever I enter it and that makes me very happy!
Check out my IKEA Hemnes Dresser Hack where I use the Rust-Oleum Cabinet Kit to give my dresser a whole new look!
Pin the Image Below to Reference Later!
Want to save this tutorial to reference once you start your next project? I’ve got you covered! Use the pin below to easily find your way back to this tutorial.